Breeding Bearded Dragons

So, you’re thinking about breeding your own bearded dragons? That’s an exciting journey, and one worth talking about.

But let me be clear right from the start—if your goal is to make quick money or turn a fast profit, this isn’t the path for you. Breeding bearded dragons requires more than just interest; it demands passion. You have to genuinely love what you’re doing.

You have to love every aspect of it—the rewarding moments, yes, but also the hard work. The cleaning, the care, the commitment. You have to be prepared for the emotional toll, for the times when you might lose one and still find the strength to carry on for the others. And above all, you must be dedicated. Dedication is what sets apart those who thrive in this endeavor from those who falter.

So, as you consider stepping into this world, ask yourself: Are you ready to embrace it with all your heart? Because if you are, the rewards go far beyond profit—they’re about building something meaningful, something alive.

Let’s talk about the first thing you need to consider when it comes to breeding bearded dragons—space. Did you know that just one pair of breeding dragons can produce over 100 babies from a single breeding session? That’s right! And with so many little ones, you’ll need more than just room—you’ll need proper electrical setup to house them safely.

Here’s the breakdown: after breeding, dragons can lay up to three clutches over the span of three months. You’ll spend that time hatching the babies, and while they can share space together for the first month, it’s absolutely crucial to separate the aggressive ones into smaller groups. This ensures every baby gets enough food—especially bugs—to grow strong and healthy.

And here’s a critical warning: I cannot emphasize enough the importance of having a qualified electrician evaluate your setup. Without proper electrical adjustments, the risk of an electrical fire is significant. Personally, I’ve had electricians come out several times to add the necessary breakers for my reptile room—and trust me, it’s worth it to ensure everything runs safely.

So, before you dive into breeding dragons, make sure you’re ready to handle the space, the setup, and the responsibility. It’s a rewarding journey, but preparation is everything.

Let’s take a moment to talk about what breeding bearded dragons really looks like.

Picture this: you’re starting with one pair of adult dragons, ready to begin their breeding journey. To get started, you’ll introduce the male to the female—or the other way around—depending on what works best for them. Every dragon is unique, so it’s important to observe their comfort levels and try different approaches. Here’s a helpful tip: make sure the male is warmed up beforehand, and consider letting the female enjoy a little extra sleep. Keep her lights off until just before you introduce the male. Sometimes, it takes more than one meeting for them to feel ready, but when they do, you’ll witness a ‘lock,’ which is the confirmation of successful breeding. I recommend trying for two locks before separating them, but one is also fine if you’re absolutely sure it happened.

After breeding, it’s time to separate the adults and focus on the female’s needs. She’ll require extra calcium and plenty of bugs daily to support her through this stage. If the eggs are fertile, she’ll start to look very full, and you may even see the eggs protruding slightly around her belly as she gets closer to laying. If the eggs are infertile, she might still appear thicker and begin digging in her enclosure, but generally, you won’t see or feel the eggs.

When you notice signs of digging in her enclosure, that’s your cue—it’s time to prepare the dig bin. This next step is crucial for her comfort and the successful laying of her eggs.

“Breeding bearded dragons is a journey that requires patience, observation, and care at every stage. With the right knowledge and attention, it can be an incredible experience.”

Let’s dive into an important question—what should a digging bin consist of?

This is such an exciting topic because, as I often say, every dragon is wonderfully unique! When setting up a dig bin, the main component is simple: a container filled with saturated, wet play sand. Now, the specifics depend on your dragon's preferences.

Some females love a deep dig bin with a loose, covered top, giving them the privacy they desire. For these, I like to cover half with a loose plastic tote top and I use metal screen lids to partially cover the other half of the bin, allowing me to place a heat bulb above it. Others, however, might prefer a bucket-style dig bin, as it lets them dig deep to lay their clutch. I cover buckets with the metal screen top and still place a heat bulb over them while they dig.

Then there are the dragons who favor spacious 40-gallon plastic totes packed with wet sand—the perfect setup for those who enjoy building intricate tunnels. And in some cases, a smaller dig bin placed directly in their enclosure might work, but I consider that my last resort.

The key takeaway here is to observe your dragon and adapt the dig bin to suit her needs. With the right setup, you’re setting her up for success and comfort during this crucial time.

Let’s talk about the process of using a dig bin for your female bearded dragons and how to know when it's time. When you notice signs of repetitive digging, that’s your cue to place her in the dig bin. She’ll stay in there for the entire day, and you’ll want to check on her every hour. But here’s an important tip—try not to disturb her while checking, as it could interrupt her natural process. For added convenience, consider setting up a camera over the dig bin to monitor her without intrusion.

Now, don’t worry if she doesn’t lay immediately. It can take some time—sometimes up to a week, though usually less. If she hasn’t laid by the end of the day, return her to her enclosure when the lights go off, and place her back in the dig bin the following morning. Repeat this process until she lays. She may dig for hours than stop and start digging in a different spot. If she likes tunnels and you notice the tunnel collapses a lot while she's digging, make the sand wetter for her or consider adding more sand.

Once she begins laying, let her complete the process. After she’s laid her clutch, allow her to cover and pack the eggs or she will continue to try and cover the eggs when not in the dig box and will cause unnecessary stress. It’s fascinating to watch—she’ll use her legs and arms to carefully cover the eggs and then her head to firmly pack the sand on top of them. When she’s done, she might look skinny and be covered in sand, but this is her moment of triumph! Be sure to reward her with a good drink and a well-deserved meal.

And don’t forget, she may go through this process up to three times after breeding. Typically, if a second clutch is coming, she’ll show signs of digging again about four weeks after the first clutch. Patience and care are key in this remarkable journey.

Let’s talk about the essentials of egg maintenance and how to ensure a successful incubation process.

First things first—prepping the eggs for the incubator. You’ll want to make sure your incubator is ready to go. Personally, I maintain a consistent temperature of 84°F for my eggs, and they typically take 60-74 days to incubate—though 60 days is often spot on. If you’re considering making your own incubator, I highly recommend a handmade PVC version. There are plenty of tutorials online that show how to build one, often using repurposed mini refrigerators. It’s a creative and cost-effective option!

For the incubation medium, I rely on perlite, which does an excellent job of holding moisture. This setup allows you to control the humidity right in the egg containers, rather than the entire incubator. A quick word of caution: avoid using glass containers or any with air holes. Eggs don’t need air holes—in fact, in the wild, hatching dragons push their way up through tightly packed sand burrows. Containers with air holes will cause the eggs to dry out, deflate, and die. (Picture of what I use at the end)

Now, speaking of egg health, how can you tell if they’re fertile? It’s simple—use a small flashlight. Gently handle the egg and slowly turn it in your hand. Fertile eggs will display a bright red ring, often referred to as the ‘ring of life.’ They’ll also be plump and visually healthy. On the other hand, infertile eggs will appear deflated or frumpy and won’t have this red ring. These can be discarded, or, if they still look decent, you can rinse them off and offer them to the female as a little protein-rich snack after she’s cleaned up and back in her enclosure.

Returning to the setup, let’s talk about perlite and containers. The best containers I’ve found are affordable, disposable plastic food containers, like the rectangular ones you can grab in packs from stores like Walmart (again, pictured at the end). You’ll fill these about two-thirds with perlite and start by adding around 5 ml of water—although I often go by feel now. Mix the water into the perlite with your hands until it holds together and loosely forms in a ball in your hand without dripping when you squeeze it. Add more or less water as needed. If you add too much water, add some dry perlite to the mix. Once you have the perlite ready, you can begin carefully transferring the eggs from the dig box.

“By following these steps, you’ll be well on your way to a smooth and successful incubation process for your eggs. Careful preparation and attention to detail are key to giving your little dragons the best start in life!”

Let’s talk about the careful and essential process of handling and incubating bearded dragon eggs.

The first step is locating the eggs. Using your hand, gently search the sand as though you’re uncovering a delicate fossil. While the eggs are sturdy and don’t require perfect precision, it’s important to handle them with care. Once you find the eggs, begin removing them one at a time, making sure to brush off as much stuck sand as possible. Next, take a flashlight to identify the ‘ring of life,’ which is your confirmation of a fertile egg. Place each egg into a container filled with perlite, ensuring the ring of life is facing upwards. Remember, the eggs can touch one another or be spaced apart—it’s a matter of personal preference. While some people like to mark the position of the ring of life on the egg, I’ve found this step unnecessary.

Labeling is a vital part of organization during this process. My labels usually include the parents’ names, the date the eggs were laid, and the total number of eggs. This helps keep everything on track. I tape the labels to the top of the containers.

Daily monitoring of your eggs is key. If you notice excess moisture forming on the lid, it could indicate there’s too much moisture in the container, and you’ll need to add dry perlite to balance it out. A small amount of moisture on the lid or sides is normal—it only becomes an issue if it’s enough to create droplets that may fall on the eggs. Make sure the eggs are positioned far enough from the top of the container to prevent any moisture from touching them. Striking the perfect balance here is crucial; the eggs need enough moisture to stay plump, but not so much that they develop mold. Experience truly is the best teacher—I’ve lost eggs to both mold and withering, and I’ve learned valuable lessons along the way.

If there’s no visible moisture after three weeks, open the container and check under a few eggs to ensure they haven’t started to wither. Healthy eggs should remain plump, whiten, and become firmer as they incubate. Over time, they’ll even plump up more. You can continue testing the eggs using your flashlight to check for bright red veins—a sign of fertility and growth. If an egg starts to turn yellow or wilt, check for veins. If there are none, it’s likely infertile and can be discarded. If you’re unsure, you can incubate the egg separately from the confirmed healthy ones, just to be safe. When in doubt, let the incubation process continue through the full 60-74 days. If an egg doesn’t hatch or molds beyond saving, it’s time to let it go.

Incubating eggs is truly a balance of care, observation, and learning as you go. It’s an incredibly rewarding experience when you see those healthy hatchlings emerge after all your dedicated efforts.

Let’s dive into the fascinating process of hatching and caring for baby bearded dragons.

Once the 60-day incubation period has passed, it’s time to keep a close watch on the eggs—or even set up a camera to capture the action. Trust me, it’s hard not to stay glued to the incubator out of sheer excitement! Near the 60-day mark, you might notice some eggs starting to drip fluid or deflate, which is a sure sign that hatching is about to begin. When you see the first egg ‘pip,’ or crack, you can usually expect the rest to hatch within about three days. During this time, let nature take its course and observe from a distance as the tiny dragons make their debut.

With experience, you may develop your own methods, but I typically remove the hatchlings within 24 hours of hatching and place them in their enclosures. Occasionally, on the third day, you may find a few eggs that haven’t pipped. In these cases, you can carefully open the egg, gently exposing the hatchling’s head while leaving the body inside the egg. Then, place it back in the incubator to see if it emerges on its own. This situation could indicate a disability, a stillborn dragon, or simply the lack of an egg tooth to pip—these scenarios are rare, but they do happen as you gain more breeding experience.

Now, when it comes to healthy babies, understanding genetics and breeding responsibly is a whole other subject. Not every female dragon will grow into a breeding-worthy individual, and it’s essential to recognize when breeding should not proceed. That’s a broader discussion, but it’s one worth considering as you navigate this rewarding hobby.

Once your babies are hatched and settled, the fun begins! Start offering fresh arugula by hand daily, alongside plenty of bugs. My personal staples for newborn dragons are extra-small Dubia roaches and small mealworms, although there are other options. Most hatchlings don’t show an appetite until a few days old, but some might surprise you by eating right out of the egg—so be prepared for anything!

Now comes an important part of their care: separating any aggressive babies to ensure that smaller or shyer hatchlings get equal access to food. I typically group the babies into sets of four or five, then transition to groups of two or three when they reach about two months old. And this brings us back to the critical point I started with—space. Breeding and raising dragons requires significant space and careful planning.

To sum it all up, hatching and raising baby dragons is an exciting and fulfilling process, but it demands diligence, adaptability, and a commitment to their well-being. With proper care and attention, you’ll nurture healthy and happy hatchlings ready to take on the world!

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